Allis Chalmers Plow Manual
You are logged in as a guest. ( ) Old 2 bottom plow Need help on what brand it is:: - Message format Posted 13:11 (#4177510 - in reply to #4177363) Subject: RE: Allis-Chalmers - 99.9999+% Sure It looks a lot like an AC model 52. There might be plow manuals and parts plus bottoms books at www.grandpastractor.com/phpBB3/index.php Click on 'tractor forum' and scroll down for the plow manuals. Except for the hitch details it looks just like the plow C.H. Wendel shows on an Allis CA in his book 'The Allis Chalmers Story.' That includes the very long landside on the rear bottom and almost no landside on the front bottom. I found a manual on this computer for the WD52 and 53 plows.
The plow frame as the original post, but the hitch is different. This picture is a snap coupler hitch, notice the long bar for the lower hitch pins. The upper hitch arm is fixed length so the bar from the top to the back of the plow is adjustable in length where a three point hitch the upper arm is usually adjustable so the plow three point hitch could be the same as the first picture. In the 60, 70, and 80 plow parts that I have studied in the parts book, the main plow frames were the same and the hitch parts were different for three point, snap coupler, and pull behind. I'm more sure now that this is an Allis Chalmers number 52 plow, but I'm only 90% sure its an Allis hitch. It might be or it might have been converted.
Mark on one bar is probably from their supplier of hot rolled bar stock. The op manual shows the exact coulter in the original post also. There were at least half a dozen bottoms that fit, 24, 25, 124, 124, 325 and more, one with slats. There is a page or two in the operator's manual about converting a 3 bottom to a 2 bottom. Probably I got that manual from grandpastractor.com last month. Geise goat farm: 19:05.
D&K Farms: 19:21. JohnW: 19:21. genechamp: 19:47. Mr.D: 20:52. ford8000: 08:43.
Gerald J.: 22:28. olivetroad: 22:42. Farmboy1983: 10:34. Robert W Greif: 11:41. Gerald J.: 13:11.
Tim(nj): 14:41. GuernseyGuy: 07:22 Jump to forum:.
Its a WD plow, on a D-17. Early type lift arm couplers, were not snap couplers, the went on the lift arms with set screws. Also, if it was mounted right, the swinging clevis, at the plow frame, should be rotated 180 degrees, then fold the arm up. If you do that, then the plow frame probably won't clear the tractor's pto. Someone probably traded some of the hitch parts around to make the plow fit the tractor. Be very careful operating it.
If it disconnects, by accident, at the snap coupler bell, it WILL swing around, and give you a plow lobotomy, removing your brains very quickly. Coupla thoughts about the picture of the plow by itself: If you rotate the lift arms outward, from their dangling position, on the little bolt that holds the clevises together, that is how the lift arms should hang, on the tractor. The adjustable link, on the right side, should always be shorter than the flat one, on the left. (as viewed from the back of tractor.) Look at the difference in color of the snap coupler eye, vs the rest of the plow. It is an addition, from a later plow. Yours was originally a 50 series WD hidden hitch plow, my guess. From your plowing picture, it looks like you need to get the plow closer to the last furrow (move the wheel in.).
I don't see that. Maybe I am wrong but I do have a WD early plow on a WD and the lift arm couplers are 'caps' with a pin that slides through the arm.
__88072.1525040168.JPG?c=2 "Chalmers")
The WD I have has a hitch that is not a snap coupler, its a channel iron bent to fit over the hitch that then swung freely though bolted to the plow. The WD was really not enough HP to pull this plow if I could jerry rig it to be so. The hitch 'seems' original and not the bent channel like the early WD plows were. Unless you are referring to a later model of the WD plow. The guy who had it before me put it on a Later WD and couldn't pull it. I had a d-14 for it I had a set of 2-14's and a set of 2 disc plows all you have to do is get the rear tire width set, then level the plows front to rear and side to side. You may have to spent some torch time heating all the plow adjustments, they must be in good working condition so you can make the proper adjustments.
Those fine threads will get stuck if the plow was stored outside and most were. Be sure the snap couple hook under the tractor has the proper carter keys in the main pin and they are in good condition also be sure the release spring is in good condition as it keeps the hook tight, it can release in rough conditions and let the plow come unhooked (bad news). Plowed many hours with those old plows and properly setup they plow great and followed the tractor straight.
Just be careful and insure all your connections are in good working order. Plowing is one of the harder pull jobs a tractor does and your equipment must be good order. You will find your weak spots if you ever hang the plows on a rock or root. My dad had three of those plows, 2-14 for a B, 2-16 for a WD and 3-14 for a D-14. Sandy land no problems pulling them but never could get them running straight. All plows and tractors were bought new. They were a pita.
That plow was made during the WD years. The plow for the D series had swept back trip beams, shouldn't matter. One thing I see wrong is your rear wheels are set out to wide. Slide them in. You might need a depth stop or guage wheel, but the crank on the plow and the TB should keep it from going to deep. Also try adjusting the right plow lift arm. This is suppose to level, you'll just have to keep trying and adjusting until you give up.
We got rid of all our A-C junk back in the early 70's and I will never regret it. Can you give us some pictures of what job the plow is doing.?? The rear 'Heal' should always leave a definite mark in the furrow bottom-(if not too much traction booster is used). Looks like the coulters are set plenty deep. 3-14' should not be much of a load for a D-17 at 2 1/2 to 3 MPH.
Looking back at the plow from the tractor seat, cranking Counter-clockwise causes the front of the plow to run shallower. Clockwise will set it Deeper.to the point that it becomes 'over-beamed' and goes in too deep, or the heal stops running on the ground from being over-beamed. The Heal does wear and occasionally needs adjusted and also needs re-adjusted when New shares are installed. Looks pretty dry there.! Doing a good job, for not having Jointers or Cover Boards.! A little less 'traction Booster' or setting the plow adjustment one more turn 'Down' would let it plow deeper. I don't see any mark in the furrow from the Heal.
Usually, you want to plow 6' to 7' deep with a 14' plow, but no deeper. Except for setting it a little deeper, you are pretty good. Might want to check the width of cut on the front furrow.may be a little narrow.it is not filling in level with the last pass. With the plow/tractor in your usual plowing position, in the furrow.measure the width of cut from the front of the coulter to the furrow wall.should be 14'. If it is, you may want to set the lift-arm adjustment down about 1/2 turn. Nice Job, Nice Pictures.! In sod and set right, you can turn un-broken furrow slices 1/4 mile long or more.!!
Makes for nice going, the 1st time over after plowing.!! Doesn't matter the tractor, the setup is the same. What's the purpose of the chain and comealong? A word of caution- you have the original old style couplers on the lift arms.
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Allis Chalmers 2000 Plow Parts
Some say that can kill you because if the Snap-Coupler releases (that's the bell housing the drawbar attaches to)- the plow can rear up over the seat and hit you in the head. They are pinned/bolted to the lift arms and will not release like the later model lift latches. Lift latches are often incorrectly called 'Snap-Couplers'. Never saw it happen, just heard about it here. Regarding setup, level it front and back in the furrow, and turning the crank towards the ground raises the plowing depth. Plowshares must be good to turn a decent furrow.