Manitou Pro 4 Fork Manual
Manitou Mattoc Pro - the review Words/Images: S Jones It can sometimes be challenging accessing the 160mm club when it’s guarded so menacingly by monsieur and, two of the most well documented bouncers. It’s true they are powerful and they can fend off as well as take a few slaps in their stride.
But they can still be hit and miss on some matters, and all bouncers have a bad day, all need a touch of love, a bit of lube from inside the house. The Fox demands a high entry price for its alleged exclusivity, and the latter’s dancing can often be a touch weak. Manitou mattoc fork-6 Front of house the Manitou Mattoc Pro has the physical presence of a well built fork, slightly more wiry than some 160mm forks with its 34mm stanchions, but at sub 2kg puts it very much head to head and in Fox 36 and Rockshox Pike territory. Reverse arch crowns sit low to keep the stiffness in check whilst wheel access is a breeze with the 6mm Hexlock axle that eliminates rotation around the axle and has now replaced the quick release lever on earlier versions. Tapered steerer, 180mm post-mount brake boss and evil genius seals complete the picture. The Manitou Mattoc comes as part of a range from 140mm through to 170mm at ten mm increments and two offset availabilities in 41mm and 44mm and in red, black or white aftermarket colours.
Internally we can talk about Dorado air, HBO and MC squared or in fact any of the the piston stuff within these legs until we’re blue in the face but ultimately, just like good wine, it all comes down to “do you like it or not?' Manitou mattoc fork-4 PERFORMANCE Some people talk of the Manitou Mattoc as having a great coil like feel but its ages since I rode a 160mm coil fork but I can report that the progressivity was bang on. On the charge the Mattoc allowed for good chassis balance never over-using its travel, the fork holding its shape, and therefore the bike’s stability, exceptionally well. It didn’t quite have the sensitivity in the initial part of the travel as a Pike, which is often over-eager to please, but what it did do was take the harder impacts without any feedback, and we’d take that, as grip was never an issue.
Manitou mattoc fork-11 Being of 34mm stanchions compared to 35mm and 36mm on Fox and Rockshox, we expected a bit more flex on the fork but the reality was a fork that muscled up to the occasion exceptionally well and on no occasion did we the fork feel underpowered or afraid to take on the challenge. In terms of adjustment it did take a while to decipher the information in the manual and in some ways it was easier to work it out for ourselves. The bottom line is that it’s a very simple fork on high and low speed compression – 4 clicks each, and the hydraulic bottom out, although the dial was a touch fiddly to access with cold fingers. Rebound has ten. Some riders might be after something a bit more ‘tuneable’ as they put it, with a ton more clicks but I think many other riders will find a happy compromise with what’s on offer going for price and simplicity over clicks that are often forgotten after a few weeks.
VERDICT The big question then, does the Manitou Mattoc hold its ground over other 160mm forks? We took a hard charging Orange Alpine with some carbon wheels and carbon Renthal bars – a tough and some might say overly stiff set up on the front of the bike and hit the uplift. And therein lies the key to any testing. Its all about wheel, bar, tyre and pressure combinations and the ground conditions you subject the fork to. It's fair to say its had to withstand a fair few knocks but that its come up very positively. With no overrated external travel adjust and no volume reducing spacers to worry about it the Mattoc scores from the outset.
With good progressivity and accuracy, at £549 its a fork that's inexpensive to start, but which in reality is available for under £400. This is a lot of fork for that money. Performance-wise, the flex/stiffness balance is about right and the effect this has on chassis control is excellent. In terms of damping there is no bounce, no harsh feedback on rock impacts.
Overall it’s a very well-rounded fork, one that takes the collisions, stands its ground in an arm wrestle with forks twice the price but not offering twice the punch. Bottom line, does it stay on our bike?
Believe it or not, this article can save you from visiting the dentist. Nope, this isn’t about brushing your teeth (though a toothbrush is involved) – it’s about servicing your mountain bike fork. Servicing your mountain bike fork is important yet it’s often overlooked until it’s too late. Your MTB fork owner’s manual should state the service intervals and it’s a good idea to follow the recommendations to get the maximum life and performance out of your fork. Some forks really work the fluids hard which will cause the them to break down slowly meaning won’t be able to tell the difference from one day to the next. But if we place two forks side by side and one was run for 75+ hours and the other was fresh, you will definitely feel a difference. For this article I’ll be talking specifically about Manitou forks that utilize TPC and Absolute damping but many of these tips will be applicable no matter which fork you ride (just remember to check the owners guide that came with your fork for specifics).
Continuing to run a fork past its service interval will cause excessive wear which can cost more to repair. Lets face it: in today’s economy, no on can afford to spend needlessly. As a licensed technician in Canada, I always tell my students and former customers: You can pay a little now.
Or a lot later. Servicing your MTB fork yourself will save you a bunch of cash in the long run. This is actually a pretty simple job and believe it or not there is only one special tool that you may need depending on your fork. WARNING: Before attempting any work or opening the fork, make sure you release any pretension or air pressure.
CAUTION: When re-assembling your fork, follow all manufacturer-recommended torque procedures. If you don’t own a torque wrench, now may be the time to invest. DO it rightFIX it right.DO not over tight! Who should attempt this task? If you’re not afraid to change your tires or make minor repairs, this job really isn’t that much harder. All you have to remember is to take pictures of the deconstruction and follow your service guide. Changing the fork seals and fluid is actually easier than it sounds – just make sure you have a clean place to work and a solid work bench.
Please remember to go over the list of necessary equipment before you start the job. Tools and materials required 20mm and 11mm socket or wrench 8, 6, 5, 4, 2mm Allen wrench or socket Soft face hammer 1/2 dowel Graduated cylinder or fluid measuring cup Graduated syringe Pick tool or fine flat screwdriver Small zip lock bag O-ring kits (order for your year fork) Dust wiper kit (the Manitou R7 uses a 30mm kit) Fork oil (5 wt is standard for the oil bath) Semi bath oil (5W40 synthetic) Prep M grease (synthetic) MTB Fork Removal So you got all your parts together (seals, fluids, tools) and are ready to go. The first thing is to remove your front wheel and front brake from the fork. You will need a 6 or 5 mm Allen socket or wrench to remove the brake completely from your fork (you may also need to cut the tie wrap that holds the brake line.) Once the wheel and brake are removed you can concentrate on removing the top cap and stem.
Once again, most bolts will require either a 4, 5, or 6mm socket or wrench. Be sure to hold the fork when you are ready to take the stem off your bike; otherwise, the fork may fall on the ground when the stem separates from the steering tube. Once the bar and stem are free, let the fork hang carefully. Now remove the fork and make sure to grab the lower bearing and seal and place them with the other bolts that you removed thus far. You should have a top cap and bolt, two bolts and washers which held the brake, spacers, and the lower bearing. Place all those components somewhere safe. To finish this segment off, place the fork in a stand (if you don’t have a stand you’ll have to hold it or have someone assist you at times).
MTB Fork Cleaning You are now at the stage where it becomes very important not to contaminate the inside of your fork. Sand particles inside your fork will ruin things very quickly, so it’s time to thoroughly clean the outside of the fork. I use a bike specific cleaner (you can simply use dish soap and warm water solution if you like) to wash off all the sand and crud. Using an old toothbrush to agitate the dirt, I make sure that all the grim has been removed, especially around the seals. Once you have removed all the dirt and the fork is dry, it’s time to start taking things apart. MTB Fork Disassembly Just in case you missed the warning. THE FIRST THING TO DO IS RELEASE THE AIR PRESSURE.
The following instructions apply specifically to Manitou forks like the Minute, Drake, and R7. If you have a different fork, consult your owner’s manual. Underneath the black Schrader cap on the LEFT fork leg (in the saddle looking at your fork) is the pressure release valve. You can use any thing to depress the valve; note that there may be a little bit of fluid that comes up which is normal. You will also notice that when all the air is released the fork will slightly compress which is also normal (this is the negative spring in the left leg). Now, on the bottom of the RIGHT leg you have to first turn the rebound knob all the way in (clockwise), then remove the 2mm Allen bolt and adjuster knob.
With an 8mm Allen key, turn in the damper shaft (same side) clockwise all the way until it is disengaged from the lower casting. Have a container ready to catch the little bit of oil that will come out of the lower legs. Moving back to the LEFT fork leg (still upside down), use an 11 mm wrench to remove the bolt that holds the compression rod in place. Turn the fork right side up (legs down) to catch all the fluid (approx. 2oml) and you’re ready to remove and clean the lower assembly. Start by removing the seals with a large wrench. Be careful to grab only the seal, then pry it off gently.
I usually replace seals after 100 hours of riding since they are cheap and offer great insurance against any crud getting inside. Once the seals are off you can remove the foam seals which are just under the wipers. Use a mild soap solution to clean out the oil residue inside.
If you have a lint free rag, wipe out all the rest of the residue and let dry. Set the fork lowers aside for a moment while you work on the fork uppers. On the LEFT fork leg you are now going to remove the air piston and the compression rod. To remove the compression rod and piston, use a 20 mm wrench and turn the black nut on the bottom counter-clockwise until the rod is free, then clean it up a bit and set it aside. Pay attention to the bottom-out bumper – if it looks squashed, it’s time to get a new one. On the top of the LEFT leg you can remove the black nut with Schrader cap using a 20mm wrench (counter-clockwise again). Once the cap is removed, take a look at the seal and make sure it is not ripped or dry.
At this point you can see the air piston in the fork leg. To remove it, slide a dowel from underneath to push the piston all the way out. The piston has orientation with a blue square seal on top and a black round seal on bottom so keep that in mind when placing it back (remember what I said about taking photos?).
Inspect both seals to make sure they are not scratched or cracking. I like to apply a small amount of synthetic shock oil to the piston and place it in a bag until I am ready to reassemble the air spring side of the shock. Final step on the LEFT leg is to clean the bore out of the fork leg using a solution of warm soap and water followed by a rinse of Speed Clean. Towel dry the tube and that’s that for the LEFT leg. Moving on to the RIGHT leg, it’s time to grab a graduated cylinder that is totally clean.
Use a 2 mm allen key to remove the top TPC / Absolute adjuster cap. BE CAREFUL when lifting up the cap underneath – there are 2 ball bearings and 2 springs inside. Carefully collect the pieces and place them somewhere safe like a plastic baggy. Once the springs and bearings are removed you’re ready to remove the damper using a 20mm socket or wrench.
With the damper loose, make sure the fork has its legs facing down and remove the damper. Once the damper is out you’ll need to measure the amount of oil inside and there are two ways to do it. I like to use a graduated cylinder to catch all the oil and record the amount of fluid. Alternatively you can use a measuring tool and look up table supplied in the owners service guide to find the correct oil level. I prefer the first method for the first time doing the service (factory fill is correct – see example chart below). Once the damper is out, turn the fork over and collect all the oil (the photo above shows about 100ml of oil that came out of my fork).
Cycle the damper shaft a few times to remove the remaining oil. Clean the piston assembly with a lint free cloth and put it aside.
MTB Fork Reassembly Starting with the lower assembly, install the foam seals and add some semi bath oil (5W40 synthetic P/N 85-0022) to get the foam seals good and wet (I use a heavier duty synthetic lube from Red Line called Shock Proof Heavy). Next, install the seals using a large socket that fits over the entire seal to seat squarely in place. Once the seals are in you can add a bit of Semi bath oil in each leg to lube the DU bushings. Set the lower legs aside and start assembling the upper assembly, LEFT fork leg first.
Lube up the compression spring with a bit of synthetic grease (prevents noise), then install it into the assembly, and add about 20 ml of semi bath oil. Torque the end cap to 80-100 in/lbs. Turn the fork so that the fork legs are facing down and install the piston into the LEFT fork leg (remember the direction of the piston.blue seal up.). Now place the lubed piston squarely on top and add a bit of semi bath oil to help push it past the first few threads on the top of the fork. Once you get it past the threads you can push the piston in a bit more and add about 3 cc of semi bath fluid to the top of the piston (I use the heavier-duty Red Line product there as well). Replace the top cap using a 20mm socket wrench and torque to 60 – 80 in/lbs.
Now it’s time to assemble the damper side RIGHT fork leg. First thing we have to do is set the fork legs facing down, then fill the fork leg 1/4 of the way up with damper fluid (P/N 85-0023) which is a 5wt oil (depending on your weight you may want to add a heavier oil). I weigh about 185 lbs plus another 6 lbs for gear I am at 191 lbs so I use a 10wt oil in my fork which allows me to really back off on the compression and rebound adjusters. With the leg 1/4 of the way filled, cycle the damper rod slowly a few times (removes the air) then fill the leg to the correct level – in my case the Manitou R7 needs 105mm. Once the level is correct you can place the compression rod and torque it to 80 – 100 in/lbs.
Finish off the task by placing the small springs and bearings opposite each other under the adjuster knob and tighten with a 2mm Allen wrench. Torque to 4 – 6 in/lbs.
Orient the fork so it’s tilted at a 45 degree angle and carefully slide the lower fork legs onto the upper assembly. Please be careful – the seals must not get folded or they will leak. Slide the lowers down until they just about touch the compression rod and rebound damper.
Inject 16cc of Semi-bath fluid in each fork leg and slide the fork in further so you can tighten them in place. For the RIGHT leg you will need the 8mm Allen socket to tighten it in place (counterclockwise 30 – 40 in/lb); replace the rebound knob (blue knob 2mm Allen bolt 4 – 6 in/lbs). On the LEFT leg, use the 11mm socket wrench and tighten it to 45 – 55 in/lbs Once the fork is all assembled you can simply install it on your bike and you’re good to go.
All you have to remember is the orientation of the bearings and remember to make sure that the brake bolts are torqued in place and the brake disk is drag free. It feels good to avoid the dentist 🙂. September 16, 2009 at 5:17 pm One of the better DIY sequences I’ve seen period. Unfortunately I have neither the patience nor fortitude to crack open my Talas RLC and RP23 can to service it, thus I pop the $150 to have them serviced 2X a year.
Are some forks just easier to service than others?? I did my SID World Cup onceand swore I’d never touch those guts again either, maybe it was because when it was all put back together, I still had a part in my hand!! Yep that went to the tech too. September 16, 2009 at 5:37 pm The Manitou series are actually very easy to service.In the up and coming month or so I will write another few articles on forks and one will be on the Fox TALAS 36That will be a bit more workIn fact most forks that have height adjustments are usually a bit more difficult With this article however you can for go most of the rebuild and just change fluids.If that is all you want to do PM me and I could let you know how to do it.
Answer Manitou Fork Parts
With Fox forks to change up fluids its a matter of only discharging the fork (ALWAYS do that first) then remove the lower nuts and washers that hold the Lower fork legs. Then change up the fluidManitou, Fox, Rockshox all sell just a wiper kit and then its a matter of fluids. March 12, 2011 at 6:00 pm Hi, I’m hoping you can help me out. I have an R7 MRD 2009 which I took apart recently to service.
I tried as best I could to follow your instructions but must have screwed up with something. Here are my problems; 1) Fork bottoms out much more than previously did 2) Fork sags about 3cm on lockout and when I apply pressure it sags even more I weigh 75kg and am using 90psi. I used 5-10 Motorex oil all round. I put exactly 16cc into each leg.
I’m quite sure the problem I have is with the damper. I’m not sure about the damper. Should I quarter fill the small tube inside the stanchion or the stanchion itself? June 14, 2014 at 5:06 pm Just a great article. Searched the web for a while now (I’m a native german speaker and we don’t have anything like this in german language) until I found this.
I will do a service to my R7 Super 80mm TPC based on your tutorial. I think i’ll have to adjust the oil level to meet the requirements of the Super 80mm.
What is not fully clear to me: at which step will I have to pump air into the fork and what pressure would you recommend? And: Is it possible to use the o-rings from the newer R7’s on my old (2006) one?