Jgl 40 H Manual
Click to expand. Yep, what I thought. The reason your engine doesn't shut down is because of a problem with the anti dieseling solenoid on the carburetor. The anti diesel solenoid stops fuel flowing through main jet of carb and kills engine. When you hit E stop button, it takes away power from choke heater and anti diesel solenoid. The E stop kills power to ignition coil pack as well, but it will continue to run from voltage input from alternator on ignition circuit. The anti diesel solenoid has to work proper to kill the engine or it will continue run when E stop is pushed in.
You can remove the solenoid from the carb and test its operation using jumper leads to a battery. It may be stuck from varnish build up. Use some carb cleaner on plunger pin as you work it in and out of solenoid body if it's stuck, then test it again with jumper leads. You need to get the plunger pin to where it will pop in and out when power is applied then taken away. And the rubber seat at the tip of the plunger pin needs to be in good shape as well.
Welcome to the forum cnckieth.:usa It's pretty easy to check the operation of the anti-dieseling solenoid. It's a round cartridge looking gizmo located at the base of the float bowl on the carb, has a single wire going to it. With the engine running, connect a test light or a volt meter to the wire connection terminal on the solenoid, it should have power. Then shut of ignition, power should go off. If it doesn't, you have some form of wiring problem.
Jlg 40 H Manuals
If power does go off, and engine continues running, the pintle of the solenoid is likely stuck. I see it quite often with the alcohol gas we have now days. New test data for the 40h not shutting off. Here is what i found out. While the engine is running there is 13.5 volts on the fuel cut off solenoid. When the ignition on the ground controls is switched off.
The voltage drops to 12.75 (note: which perfectly matches the battery voltage while the engine is NOT running) this is also repeated when using the platform controls, while running 13.5, and press the E stop button and it drops to 12.75. So apparently the battery voltage is not being cut off from the solenoid when the estop on the platform or ignition on the ground control is in the OFF position.
And the engine continues to run. The only way i can turn it off is the switch from the Gasoline to LP setting on the fuel select switch. And the volt meter shows 0 volts when this is done and the engine shuts off.
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Fine for ground controls. But no way to shut off when you are in the air:-( does anyone have a starting place for me to look for this wiring problem? Does this sound like a relay related issue to you'all? And is there anywhere on line to download a 1998 40H wiring diagram? Thanks in advance for any input!
I guess I should have asked, does your 40H have the Ford LRG423 four cyl dual fuel engine? You can download operators, parts, and service manuals at JLG website, although the service manuals aren't very informative. The wiring and hyd diagrams are in both the parts and service manuals. Go to When the home page opens, click 'Services' in the left column. When that link opens a new page, click on 'Parts, Operators, and Service Manuals' in the left column. That will take you to a PDF download page, simply select JLG and you machine model.
My first thought was an alternator problem keeping ignition circuit powered up, but that can't be the case if you can flip the fuel switch to the center position and engine will die. What happens when you flip that switch to center position is it turns off fuel flow to fuel pump via a solenoid valve in fuel line. Engine runs until carb runs out of fuel. Alternator ign terminal, fuel pump shut off solenoid, anti diesel solenoid, and choke are kinda on the same circuit. I think the next thing I would try, with engine running, would be pull the yellow wire connected to terminal 86 on R18 and R19 ignition relays in lower control box. If engine dies, go back through the wiring to determine why that circuit remains powered when ignition switch is off. If engine continues running when you pull the wire connected to 86 on R18 and R19, you either have a stuck relay or something is wired up wrong.
To 'solve' the problem, i cut the wire going to the solenoid and ran a new wire to the 'on' side of the ignition relay. (power on when ignition switch is on). I could never figure out why the solenoid had power to it when the ignition switch is in the off position. One hint may be the fact that the hour meter is also on and running while the ignition switch is in the off positions (and the master switch on). Anyways its running and working now.
Thanks for this forum, and thanks to willie59 for the hints. Ok, I need to ask a few questions.
You cut the wire going to anti-dieseling solenoid on base of carb, and ran a new wire to 'on' side of ignition relay. Take a look at this diagram, there should be 2 ignition relays (shown in red box), is one of these the relay you connected wire to? If so, which terminal did you connect to? Also, if you only ran a wire to the anti-diesel solenoid, what about the carb choke, fuel pump cutoff solenoid, and 5 degree tilt sensor, these components run off the same circuit as the anti-diesel solenoid. I connected the fuel cut off solenoid to the bottom yellow (86) on R19. I didn't disconnect the carb choke, degree sensor or anything else.
Jlg 40h Operators Manual
I isolated the solenoid from the circuit that those items where on since that circuit was causing the problem. Those items seem not to effect the operation of the machine if they have power to them while the ignition switch is off. I know this solution is not ideal.
Jlg 40ha Parts Manual
Really the reason why power is on in that circuit with the ignition in the ON position should be solved to get things back to 'normal'. But isolating the fuel cut off solenoid from the problem circuit seemed like an acceptable work around with no detrimental side effects.